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Corresponding Author

Ebraheem, Hamdy Ahmed

Subject Area

Textile Engineering

Article Type

Original Study

Abstract

This research work presents an accurate experimental method for measuring yarn diameter and a theoretical method based on a scientific basis and, in the same time, easy, simple, and not costly with respect to cash, labor, or raw materials, to characterize the geometrical properties and constructional details of the single woven fabric. All formulae and equations are obtained by derivation and prooving. Single woven fabrics could be classified into two types: Floated and Extended. Floated weaves are characterized by regular yarn spacing, whereas Extended weaves are characterized by irregular yarn spacing. Average float was used, building on the theoretical analysis, to express the weave structure. Yarn diameter and interlacing method for each of warp and weft are important constructional details used to calculate maximum density of yarns in the fabric i.e. yarn weavability. Yarn densities are used besides these details in predicting yarn crimp ratio, yam cover ratio, fabric cover ratio, and fabric thickness. Assuming maximum set of yarns in the fabric, according to the values predicted, maximum yarn crimp ratio, and maximum yarn and fabric cover ratios can be calculated. Fabric tightness comprises warp tightness (weft intersections/ unit fabric width) and weft tightness ( warp intersections/ unit fabric length). Warp intersections/ unit fabric length equals picks/ cm divided by warp average float, and Weft intersections/ unit fabric width equals ends/ cm divided by weft average float. Maximum tightness could be expressed in terms of yarn diameter and average float. Using yarn count in addition to the above mentioned details, fabric weight can be determined either at maximum yarn density (maximum weight) or at normal yarn densities (normal weight). Fabric thickness is determined in terms of yarn diameters. Yarn volumetric density is determined in terms of yarn diameter and count. Knowing fabric weight and thickness enables calculating its volumetric density. The relative weaving density (the ratio between actual yarn density and maximum yam density) can also be calculated. All expressions are derived using elementary principles. Peirce's model of woven fabrics is modified in such a manner that fabric can be spread onto a planer surface. This methodology lets no need to many instruments used in testing fabrics such as fabric thickness meter, yarn diameter ordinary meter, and yarn crimp tester and helps reduce yarn waste as the amount of consumed yard can be accurately calculated. It helps also reduce costs of weaving by choosing the suitable weaving machine and its adjustments according to maximum set of yarns and fabric characters, and costs of testing yarns and fabrics.

Keywords

Cylinders; Yarn Diameter; Warp; Weft; Average Float; Plain and Floated Weaves; Extended Weaves; Weave Angle; Yarn Density; Yarn Crimp Ratio; Yarn Cover Ratio Fabric Weight; Fabric Thickness; Fabric Volumetric Density; Relative Weaving Density; Tightness; Maximum Tightness

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